#review

Apr 17, 2019

Natural wines from a garage in Catalonia

I’m not going to get into a discussion about so-called natural wine or raw wine, except to say that I'm not a cheerleader for them. That...

Feb 17, 2017

Girls' Night: who'd have thought it...

As I sat on the train reading up about the dinner I was heading for at Northcote in Lancashire, a Michelin-starred restaurant and AA...

Sep 13, 2016

The World's Worst Wine

It goes without saying that I never review wines I haven't tasted. I'm making an exception now for Tiger Bone Wine, Chinese rice wine...

Sep 2, 2016

Krug, Egg, Two Chefs and Two Michelin Stars

Above: Iberico pork, ajo blanco, boquerón anchovies, eggshell and cinders by Michael O'Hare. The edible eggshell was made from egg white,...

Aug 9, 2016

Playing with Fire: Ekstedt restaurant in Stockholm

Cooking over fire at Ekstedt (clockwise from top left): wood-fired oven with loaves of bread waiting at the side to go in, smoke box and...

Aug 2, 2016

Basque dreams: Ametsa with Arzak Instruction

For some reason 2016 is turning out to be a great year for eating. I seem to have had more, more than usually exciting restaurant meals...