£8.50, The Wine Society
There are much showier Alsace wines, not least Gewurztraminer, but for an aperitif or a match for salad, shellfish or charcuterie, where you want the wine to accompany you or the food but not to shout, Sylvaner is perfect. This one is typical of the Maison Léon Beyer style: bone-dry, crisp, leafy and citrusy with just a murmur of riper peach and pear. It takes a few moments for the aromas and flavours to unfold, so it’s worth giving your glass a swirl. I can recommend this to anyone feeling a bit frazzled organising the return to school – the whole of France, where I am at present, seems to be in a lather over la rentrée.
Léon Beyer Sylvaner 2014, Alsace, France
£8.50, The Wine Society