£12.50, Hennings Wine
A vibrant, butter-smooth white Rioja that combines the best of tradition with a new-wave contemporary feel, from a bodega that has been on a progressive footing since 1970 when Luis and Ángeles Cañas were the first in Rioja Alavesa to bottle their wine rather than sell it in bulk. Luis, now 86, still oversees the sorting table where the freshly harvested grapes are checked for quality before pressing. Fermentation is in new French oak barrels and the wine is then matured for just three and a half months in a mixture of new French and American oak before bottling. The oak may be new, but the vines are at least 60 years old, giving depth and intensity to the wine's quince and lime-curd fruit, the hint of honey and shimmering freshness. It's not too oaky to drink on its own, but it's a good match for risotto, fish, poultry or pork. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans.
Bodegas Luis Cañas Rioja Blanco Fermentado En Barrica 2016, Rioja, Spain
£12.50, Hennings Wine; £11.99, Davis Bell McCraith; £134.27 for 12, The Fine Wine Company. Earlier vintages are available from other stockists, including The Vinorium, Cheers Wine Merchants and Find Me That Wine.