£23.50, Corney & Barrow
Don't be put off by the the thought of having to pronounce the name. This is a wonderful dry white, full of flavour and character, and Öreg Király-dulo translates simply and memorably as Old King vineyard. The steep, stony, traditionally terraced vineyard is on the majestic Király-hegy (King's hill), near the old town of Mád in the heart of the Tokaj region, and has belonged to the Barta family since 2003. They and their winemaker Vivien Ujvári are commendably conscious of being caretakers of chemically untouched soils: they farm organically and the wine is left to ferment spontaneously. As for Furmint, the main grape of the region and of the famous, sweet Tokaji Aszú wines, it's up there with the world's finest. Barta's deliciously aromatic wine, with its smoky coffee-bean, floral, mirabelle, quince and lime aromas and rich, zesty, smoky mineral palate, is witness to that. You can drink it on its own, but it has the depth of flavour and zing to take on plenty of foods, from sweet vegetables and tomato, to lightly spiced fish, roast chicken or turkey, paprika pork and vitello tonnato, to dishes in cream sauces.
Barta Öreg Király-dulo Dry Furmint 2015, Mád, Tokaj, Hungary
£23.50, Corney & Barrow