£14, Sainsbury's
This has been aged in oak – and not any old oak but "lightly toasted, hand-cleft French new oak barrels from the very best cooperages in France," according to the bodega – but as it spent only eight months in the barrels it isn't either a Rioja Crianza or a Reserva, both of which have to be at least a year in oak. It's certainly none the poorer for that. What the oak provides here is a lightly oaky backdrop and polished texture to support the glossy blueberry fruit, spice and fine tannins. The result is the intensity and vitality of a contemporary style, but a Rioja that remains true to its Tempranillo and Alavesa origins. I can imagine it appealing to a lot of wine drinkers who say they don't like Rioja because it's too oaky, as well to diehard Rioja fans. You could drink it with pretty well any red meat, pork, duck or vegetable dish (stuffed aubergine and roast peppers would be good) or something like a chick pea and chorizo stew. 14%
Bodega Palacios Cosme Palacio Rioja Vendimia Seleccionada 2016, Rioja, Spain
£14, Sainsbury's