Exciting Italian Red Wines from Marchesi Alfieri, Rocche Costamagna and Castello di Vicarello

The highly prized Rocche dell'Annunziata vineyard in La Morra, Barolo, where Rocche Costamagna has four hectares

It has been a good year for Italian tastings, in person, virtual and samples. Below are my tasting notes and food pairings for seven red wines from three estates, two in Piedmont and one in coastal Tuscany. You won't find any Sangiovese, but you will find Nebbiolo from the tiny Terre Alfieri DOCG as well as from Barolo's prized Rocche dell Annunziata vineyard, plus two Barberas, a Bordeaux blend and a Malbec.

Marchesi Alfieri is a family owned, run and occupied estate with a splendid castle and park in San Martino Alfieri, in the hills where the Roero, Langhe and Monferrato regions meet, west of the Tanaro river.

The family goes back a bit. Their first ‘modern winery’ was apparently constructed in 1696, at the same time as the castle was built by Carlo Antonio Massimiliano Alfieri on land granted to Urbano Alfieri by Carlo Emanuele I of Savoy in 1616.

But the first 10,000 bottles under the Marchesi Alfieri label were not produced until 1990, under the watch of Emanuela, Antonella and Giovanna San Martino di San Germano, the three sisters who took over from their father in 1988 and run the winery today alongside the next generation and the winery director since 1999, Mario Olivero.

The 20ha of vineyard include Pinot Noir for sparkling metodo classico, and Grignolino. I tasted two Barbera d’Asti and a Nebbiolo, all impressively elegant in style.

Marchesi Alfieri La Tota 2022, Barbera d’Asti

From vineyards of different ages, exposure, soils and clones, blended after the malolactic fermentation. Aged for about a year in 2–3 year old French oak barrels of 225 litres and 500l, then 3–6 months in bottle before release.

Vibrant purple colour and equally vibrant plum, damson and elderberry aromas. Round, fresh, fine-textured palate with crunchy, fresh Barbera acidity, succulent, ripe fruit and a hint of oak spice. Pure, vivacious and smooth. Not complex, but full of joie de vivre and versatile with food.

I had it with confit chicken livers (the pan deglazed with LBV port), roast onion, carrots and cauliflower (spiced with caraway and cumin) and cheesy polenta, and also with kydonato, the Greek lamb and quince stew. It would go well with meat and tomato pasta dishes, pasta e fagioli, cotecchino and other sausages, pork belly, or charcuterie. 14.5%. Stockists

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Marchesi Alfieri Barbera d’Asti Superiore Alfiera 2021

From a single vineyard of 4.5ha. Malolactic fermentation in wood with bâtonnage.

Deep purple. Darker, more brooding damson aromas than La Tota, well framed by oak. Concentrated palate with damson and cherry fruit, dark chocolate, dried herbs, an underlay of oak and ripe tannins and a cleansing bite on the finish. This is serious Barbera that still needs a little more time.

Very good with confit chicken livers and it would pair well with other liver dishes, pigeon, venison steak or roast hogget (rather than young lamb). 15%. Stockists

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Marchesi Alfieri Costa Quaglia Nebbiolo Terre Alfieri 2021

From a small, low-yleld vineyard in slightly chalky clay silt in San Martino in the 40ha Terre Alfieri DOCG created in 2020. Malolactic fermentation in wood. Two year’s ageing, of which at least 12 months in 2,500-litre barrels and 500l French barrels and 6–12 months in bottle.

Bright ruby. Dusky perfumed damask roses, fraises des bois and orange peel on the nose. Tart, red cherry fruit, delicately nutty, spicy oak and a whisper of smoky cocoa and herbs, all shaped by taffeta-fine tannins and acidity.

Pair with wild mushrooms and truffles, roast wild duck, venison striploin, rare roast beef or beef tagliata, or veal chop with rosemary. 14%. Stockists

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Rocche Costamagna dates from 1841 and is now in the hands of the sixth generation. The heart of the 15-ha estate is in Barolo La Morra where its 8.8ha include four in the highly prized Rocche dell’Annunziata cru, lying high up at 320–360m asl and mainly facing southeast.

The family describe their Barolo style as traditional, ‘complex yet elegant’, a style achieved through sustainable viticulture, three-week maceration, fermentation with indigenous yeasts and ageing in 2,500–3,000-litre Slavonian oak.

Rocche Costamagna Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata 2020

Harvest: 5–6 October. 21-day maceration. Aged for 18 months in large (3,000 litre) Slavonian oak.

Palish ruby. Fragrant red berries, roses and orange pomander. Glorious, fresh and delicately velvety with tannins of very fine texture; sweet fruited with savoury, earthy spice and minerals, a hint of liquorice and a long-lasting finish. Drink now to 2040.

It paired very well with rare ribeye steak, fennel gratin and roast garlic and would also go well with veal with rosemary and garlic (roast, pan-roast or chops), or with lamb or veal boulangère. 14.5%. Stockists

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Rocche Costamagna Barolo Riserva Rocche dell’Annunziata Bricco Francesco 2016

Harvest: 27 October; 25-day maceration; aged for 36 months in large (3,000l) Slavonian oak.

Palish ruby garnet. An enticing, complex nose of mellow, autumnal dried fruits, hedgerow berries and strawberry, with forest-floor and warm, fragrant spices. Suave, silky palate with chalk-dust fine tannins, spicy dried cherries, polished leather, soft fresh acidity and great persistence. Drink now to 2040.

Pair it with truffle and wild mushroom dishes, roast beef, lamb or venison, or hard cheeses (such as Grana Padana or Manchego). 14.6%. Stockists

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Castello di Vicarello is a Bordeaux-inspired Tuscan estate in Poggio del Sasso in the Maremma created at the turn of the century by Florence-born businessman Carlo Baccheschi Berti and now run by his eldest son Brando.

The three vineyards covering six hectares are planted with Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Sangiovese and are notable for their very high density (10,000–14,000 plants per hectare) and for being trained in the traditional, but now uncommon, albarello (low bush) style. They face southwest, are surrounded on all sides by Mediterranean scrub, forest and centuries-old olive groves and are certified organic. The complex, ancient soils are largely clay-loam and are rich in active limestone.

The latest wine, Poggio Vico, launched in 2022 with the 2018 vintage, is the fourth red and is a pure Malbec inspired by Carlo Baccheschi Berti’s love of both Argentine and Bordeaux wine. The 0.5ha of vines were planted in 2004 on the highest part of the Poggio Vico hill (300m asl) at an average density of 12,000 plants per ha. They waited 14 years before launching the single varietal, single vineyard wine.

Poggio Vico 2020, Toscana Malbec

100% Malbec, aged in French oak barriques (30% new) for 18 months and then 12 months in bottle. 2,500 bottles.

Mid ruby. Perfumed with floral and powdery cherry aromas. Immediately silky on the palate with appetising freshness, black as well as red cherry fruit, fine tannins, hints of clove and black tapenade and an attractive, light, bitter twist of tannin on the finish. Graceful and buoyant.

Try it with with confit de canard, cassoulet, bean casseroles, beef empanadas or steak. 14.5%. No known stockists yet of the 2020.

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Castello di Vicarello 2018, Toscana

A blend of 45% Cabernet Franc, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot from 1.1ha planted in 2000 at a density of 12,000 plants/ha. Fermentation in 30hl French oak tapered vats (cuve tronconique); malolactic in barrel, then maturation in French oak barriques for 24 months followed by 24 months in bottle. 3,500 bottles.

Deep, vibrant purple colour. Elegant, fresh blackcurrant, bay leaf and cedar nose. A cool, meltingly creamy, subtly oaked palate with both red and black fruit. Very polished and elegant; medium bodied with finely etched tannins; shaped by its acidity rather than by tannins.

It goes very well with red meat but can also take on a surprising range of flavourings. It was very good with beef short rib tacos, tortillas, a rub that included muscovado, coriander, cumin, fennel, garlic, paprika, chilli and tomato), salsa la Maya (agave syrup, vinegar, cumin, garlic, habanero), pickled red onion, and black bean refritos. 14%. No known stockists yet of the 2018.

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