£32.95, Waitrose
In the absence of the assault course of Burgundy En Primeur tastings that I would have done by this point in a normal year (not that I'm complaining about them – I love Burgundy), I'm delighted to have a beauty of a red Beaune to recommend.
It's Pinot Noir, but so much more than Pinot Noir, a wine for which the words perfume, silkiness, buoyancy, transparency and harmony could have been coined. Starting with delicate spice and sandalwood on the nose, it opens on to peony and sweet red berries (strawberry and cherry), there's a suggestion of cappuccino and it finishes on a long, fresh, oak-brushed red-cherry note. The palate is so silky you barely notice the mesh of tannins, but they're there, just like the acidity, giving the structure and potential for it to be enjoyed any time over the next five years and probably longer.
It's a blend of parcels from 17 different Premiers Crus, individually vinified and matured for 12–14 months in French oak (25-30% new) and it's a wine Bouchard has been producing since 1907. Partridge, wild duck, farmed duck, quail, rack of lamb and mushroom dishes would all pair well with it. 13.5%
Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune du Château Premier Cru 2017, Beaune, France
£32.95, Waitrose, £179.94 for 6, North & South Wines; £460 for 12, Millésima
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