£26.50, Tanners Wine Merchants
The joy of good Gigondas is that the characteristic power and generosity are leavened by sappy freshness, so the wines never feel too brawny or inaccessible.
I use the word ‘joy’ advisedly, incidentally, as the name Gigondas (that of the appellation’s core village) may come from the Latin jucundas, which means ‘joyful’.
Domaine Le Clos des Cazaux’s La Tour Sarrasine is unquestionably good Gigondas, its ripe-fruit approachability overlaying a life-giving tannic structure. In fact, while the 2022 can be drunk with great pleasure now – let me say that again, great pleasure – it really deserves to be put a way for another couple of years.
That said, I really don’t want to deter anyone from pulling the cork right now and enjoying a glass brimming with the taste of sun-warmed raspberries and blackberries, baking spices, black olive tapenade, Mediterranean herbs and river-washed rocks.
The 46-ha Le Clos de Cazaux is run by the Archimbaud Vache brothers whose family have been in neighbouring Vacqueyras since the late 18th century. Jean-Michel takes charge of the vineyards and brother Frédéric is the winemaker.
The vineyards for La Tour Sarrasine lie at a lofty 600m in limestone soils and the vines, most of which are 40–50 years old, are cultivated manually and sustainably with respect for the environment and low yields uppermost.
The three grape varieties, 70% Grenache and 15% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre, and the individual plots are vinified separately and then blended and aged in stainless steel and concrete. There’s no oak, no fining and rarely any filtration.
It’s a wine that pairs well with meat, pulses and vegetables, including red meat, pork and game – rare roast, slowly braised or in wintry casseroles and cassoulets – and with hearty pulse and vegetable stews, roast veg and vegetable tagines. 14%
If you’re looking for something cheaper, perhaps to test the southern Rhône waters, Tanners’ very good Rhône Valley Red 2022 is currently on offer at a tempting £12.96, down from £14.40. 14.5%
Domaine Le Clos des Cazaux La Tour Sarrasine Gigondas 2022, Rhône, France
£26.50, Tanners Wines