WINE OF THE WEEK: Domaine Silène des Peyrals 2021, Grés de Montpellier Languedoc, France
- Joanna Simon
- Apr 24
- 2 min read
Updated: Apr 26
£19.50, Vintage Roots
Grés de Montpellier only became an AOP in its own right from the 2024 vintage (appellation controlée in the old terminology), so this 2021 predates that and has to say Languedoc after Grès de Montpellier on the label, but its quality soars way above many a more famous southern French AOP.
It was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels and is deep crimson in colour with weight and power carried airily by seamless, silky tannins, generous fruit and drifts of irises, black cherries, garrigue herbs, spices (nutmeg sweetness and the slightly bitter, woody cinnamon note of cassia bark) and a hint of blood orange.
The blend of Domaine Silène des Peyrals varies from vintage to vintage – all wines of the AOP have to be a blend of at least two of the sanctioned varieties – but this 2021 is Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan and Grenache Noir from 25–30 year old vines.
The point, though, is that it's not so much the grape varieties that define the wine and the appellation as the climate and stony terrain.
The Mediterranean is close enough for sea breezes to moderate the summer temperatures and at Domaine Silène the stony vineyards are surrounded by truffle oaks, an olive grove, pine forests and garrigue – and it’s the area’s distinctive pebbly stones, grès in occitan, that give their name to the appellation.
The estate, one of 15 in Languedoc owned by Jean Claude Mas, one of the region’s great innovators and pioneers of quality wine, is certified organic and has been run on biodynamic principles since 1995, just a few years after he established it with his mentor, the late, renowned Italian oenologist Giorgio Grai.
It's a wonderful wine which I would happily continue to drink over the next four years with, among other things, barbecued and roast meats, daubes and other stews, game, rich tomato pastas, ratatouille, roast, root and Mediterranean vegetables and hard and semi-hard sheep and cow’s cheeses.
Domaine Silène des Peyrals 2021, Grés de Montpellier Languedoc, France
£19.50, Vintage Roots; £23, Xtrawine
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I recently had the chance to try a wine from the Languedoc region, and the unique combination of flavors really stood out to me. The blend of fruitiness with subtle spice and earthy undertones made for a rich and enjoyable experience. I could almost imagine the Mediterranean breeze and the stony vineyards described in the article. It’s impressive how the terroir and climate influence the character of the wine so strongly. For a relaxing evening, after savoring a glass like this, I would suggest playing something fun and light like Block Blast as a good way to unwind.
This 2021 Grés de Montpellier, predating its AOP status, impresses with seamless tannins, vibrant fruit, and complex aromas of irises, cherries, and garrigue. The blend showcases Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan, and Grenache Noir. Climate and terrain define this Languedoc gem. Having fun with such rich descriptions is like playing Wordle Unlimited.
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