WINE OF THE WEEK: M. Chapoutier Saint-Péray 2023, Rhône, France

£19.99, Majestic

It’s rare to see a Saint-Péray outside independent merchants and restaurants. It's a tiny appellation to the west of Valence in the south of the northern Rhône that produces white wines only – and, uniquely in the Rhône, sparkling as well as still – and there's just not enough of it for mass exposure.

In 2023 the total output was just over 520,000 bottles from 111 ha. Even so, it's on a bit of a roll at the moment with both its dry still and sparkling wines. So much so that, for the first time, I featured two sparkling Saint-Pérays in my annual Festive Champagne and Sparkling Guide last year (both are still available, although the Alain Voges Les Bulles d’Alain has changed vintage).

In the 18th century, sparkling Saint-Péray had a glittering, Europe-wide reputation and was served to the likes of Queen Victoria and the Russian Tsars. Today, the still wines outnumber the traditional-method fizz.

This is one of the still whites, from a big name in the Rhône, Michel Chapoutier, renowned for his commitment to biodynamics. It’s essentially Marsanne (many of the wines are a blend with some Roussanne) and from two soil types: calcareous, giving freshness, and granitic sands, giving a mineral character.

It’s partly fermented in oak barrels and aged on lees with bâtonnage (stirring), which adds a lovely, lightly smoky, toasted oak note and rich texture to the apricot and pear fruit, the spice and honey and the racy, mineral, lemon-scented finish.

M. Chapoutier Saint-Péray 2023 makes an enticing aperitif and pairing for salmon and shellfish, as well as for dishes such as broad beans, ricotta and mint (as salad or with pasta), risi e bisi, delicate chicken korma and pork Béarnaise (pork stew with lots of onion and an undercurrent of anchovy). It also handles triple-creme cheeses such as Chaource well. 12.5%. Empty bottle weight; 575g.

M. Chapoutier Saint-Péray 2023, Rhône, France

£19.99 in any 6 bottles, or £24.99 singly, Majestic

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